A Tale of Transylvania - Peter K's travel journal

Warm greetings from Romania and happy winter holidays to you and everyone around you.

As travel begins to emerge from two years of pandemic concerns, going private may still be the best way to go.

As you know, I started working on Journey Elsewhere project while guiding in Patagonia and learning the ropes of adventure travel business from some of the best in the industry, Explora Chile and Awasi Patagonia. And so, bringing together all the skills and knowledge I have accumulated during the years spent in South America, we specialize in creating entirely bespoke trips, with activities, hotels, menus and routes customized for you, private trips that offer maximum choice and flexibility.

If the pandemic thought us anything, it's that we need to self select and maintain our own pod and bubble as much as we can. That's especially true with adventure travel. Instead of traveling with strangers, why not travel with people that you know? Bring your extended family or group of like-minded friends, guides aside and have all the fun with your own tribe.

It was 2016 when I met Peter K. and his lovely wife Sharon. Guiding them on a hike at Explora in Patagonia, on the account of me mentioning about my Romania plans, we exchanged contact details and parted ways. Four years later, in 2020 I was officially able to launch Journey Elsewhere. Consequently, Peter expressed his interest in visiting Romania and we started organizing this incredible, immersive and experiential journey through the mythical Transylvania. Unfortunately, the Covid pandemic came in the way and we had to postpone the entire journey for 2022, hence we decided to upgrade everything, making the entire experience even more memorable.

We invite you on a photographic journey, following our itinerary of A Tale of Transylvania and maybe catch a glimpse into our nine days adventure.

Day 1 - Sibiu

Summer is upon us, the air is warm and the nature in full bloom, all the preparations done and together with George (Razvan) we welcome Peter and his lovely group of friends at Sibiu International Airport, where we start our wonderful adventure through Romania.

With a historical heritage of over 900 years, Sibiu, colloquially known as "The City with Eyes" can be called the city with the richest historical and architectural heritage in Romania. Fringed by the peaks of the Southern Carpathian Mountains, resplendent with Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and a wealth of historical attractions. We have a guided walking tour of this incredible city, passing the medieval centre, a Unesco World Heritage Site, its Grand and Lesser Squares with its elaborately decorated buildings, popping in stylish and trendy cafes and bars for refreshments and just having fun while immersing into the local life and culture.

In the evening we dine in town in a cozy farm-to-table family-run restaurant, highly rated by Gault-Millau, the menu focused on fresh traditional Romanian and Saxon cuisine, paired with excellent local wines.

Day 2 - Dacian Fortresses, Corvin Castle, Sibiu

We begin our journey into Transylvania exploring the mystical Sarmisegetusa Regia, the capital city of the kingdom of mighty Dacians, the forefathers of the Romanian people. Strongholds hidden in the mountains, between lush forests, since 1st century BC, "their extensive remains stand in spectacular natural surroundings and give a dramatic picture of a vigorous and innovative civilization". After strolling through these magnificent ruins, now designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site, and learning about ancient history we have lunch in the orchard of a local family, up in the village spread out on a mountain plateau with spectacular views of the surrounding snowcapped Carpathian Mountains.

On our way back to Sibiu we visit the impressive medieval Corvin Castle, one of the largest castles in Europe and a Renaissance-Gothic masterpiece with an intriguing history.

Back in Sibiu, we head for dinner at the charming La Cuptor restaurant, highly praised by Gault-Millau, the European gastronomic guide. Unwinding from the day, we enjoy with some delightful cocktails and surprisingly elegant Romanian wines, and of course, lots of fun.

Day 3 - Balea Waterfall, Transfagarasan Highway, Carpathian Mountains

We are early risers this morning and after a quick breakfast we leave Sibiu and headed into Fagaras Mountains the highest mountains of the Southern Carpathians in Romania. We enjoy the first part of the day with a wonderful hike to Balea Waterfall, the highest and most beautiful step waterfall in Romania. Of course we couldn't help but drive all the way up to Balea Lake on the Transfagarasan Highway, Romania's most spectacular and best known road, made famous by BBC's Top Gear show.

Lunch is enjoyed this time at an eco-trout farm, nestled in the mountains, before continuing on towards our next hotel, Amfiteatrul Transylvania, perched up on a remote mountain with breathtaking views of the surrounding Bucegi and Piatra Craiului Mountains.

Dinner here is served on the patio, taking in the fresh mountain air, under a spectacular light show offered by a stunning sunset behind the towering mountains.

Day 4 - Sinaia, Peles Castle, Private Party at Bran Castle

After a beautiful sunrise and a hearty breakfast, we start heading into the mysterious Bucegi Mountains, visiting Sinaia and Peles Castle. A Neo-Renaissance masterpiece surrounded by ancient forests and impressive through the riches it has accumulated, the castle was the summer residence of the Royal Family, was built in the 19th century, surprisingly modern for those times.

After the castle visit we enjoy a snack and refreshments in the beautiful gardens of this charming place. Before heading to Bran we pay a visit to Sinaia Monastery, built in the 17th century by Prince Cantacuzino in the Byzantine Style. On the way we decide to split the group in two, as the gentlemen opt for shopping and enjoying a few local craft beers in Bran, while the ladies conclude it will be more fun returning to our hotel, to have a refreshing cocktail and gear up for tonight's surprise.

And what a surprise it was! Together with Peter we conspire and decide to throw a surprise party for the group. And so, we rented out the entire Bran Castle, having Vlad Tepes, the Romanian Prince commonly known as Vlad the Impaler, showing us around all the secrets of Dracula's Castle. Dinner at the castle proves to be a fine culinary and auditory experience hosted in the Music Saloon of Queen Mary of Romania while Trei Parale group was enchanting us with their old Romanian traditional music rhythms. We end up dancing Hora at the castle and just having the most fun. The whole night turns out to be a full sensory experience with quirky and genuine moments which leaves a vivid and impressive memory for our guests. The private party at the Dracula Castle turns out to be a wonderful and unforgettable experience!

Day 5 - hiking and picnic, private chef culinary experience

After a good night's rest and a wonderful breakfast, being the IE Day (Romania's traditional shirt day), we dressed everyone in these traditional shirts and we set on foot to experience the natural wonders of this magnificent area. Hiking through its breathtaking landscape, taking in panoramic views of the mysterious Carpathians and just reconnecting with nature in an authentic way. Lunch is served as a gourmet picnic specially prepared for us with fresh locally sourced ingredients.

You'll get the chance this afternoon to enjoy some leisure time on the grounds of this mountain property. Dinner tonight is another beautiful surprise as the appraised Chef Bogdan delighted us with an open fire gourmet five course dinner prepared at high altitude. The dining experience is enhanced with a wine tasting event presented by a known local sommelier. We conclude this wonderful day around a huge bonfire, with a glass of brandy and entertaining stories under the starry night.

Day 6 - Brasov, Prejmer Fortified Church, Zabola Estate

The city of Brasov is one of the most visited places in Romania. We go on a walking tour of this incredible city, passing the medieval centre and the Black Church, with its world-famous Buchholz organ and a rare collection of oriental carpets from the Ottoman Empire.

After lunch in the city centre we depart towards Prejmer Church, part of the fortified churches of Transylvania included in Unesco World Heritage Sites. Built in the 13th century by the Teutonic Knights the church is now listed as a Romanian monument hosting a small museum.

Dinner is a fine dining experience at the fabulous Zabola Estate, a countryside experience in turn-of-the-century style, The Castle Park itself stretches over some of the most beautiful Hungarian region of Transylvanian Countryside, with more than 600 years history behind.

Day 7 - massages, sauna in the forest, bears watching

Today we enjoy a more leisurely pace of the morning, we take our time over breakfast and decide to split the group in two again. The ladies are delighted to spend their afternoon enjoying some well deserved massages, while the gentlemen decide to wonder up to the forest sauna and have some boys' fun.

After lunch at the Estate we are in for another treat, the custodians of this remarkable place took us deep in the forests, bear watching in their natural habitat. Zabola Estate also manages the Carpathian Mountain Conservation area, over one million hectares of dense forests covering the Eastern Carpathian Mountains the habitat of a rich wildlife. Romania is home to more then 60 % of the entire European brown bear population.

After enjoying some glimpses in a bears life, from the safety of our wildlife observatory, we return to the Estate and enjoyed a local wine tasting at the pavilion in the woods before dinner in style at Zabola.

Day 8 - Viscri, Sighisoara Citadel, Bethlen Estates

After a good night's rest and a hearty breakfast we continue our journey towards the village of Viscri, made world famous by now King Charles of Great Britain, who decided to involve himself deeply in the conservation and preservation of Transylvania's cultural treasures. After visiting the fortified church and strolling through the charming village, lunch is hosted by a local Saxon and her family in the courtyard of their house, serving up fresh ingredients.

We then follow the road all the way into Sighisoara. This city is another Unesco Site and one the few medieval citadels still inhabited. We take some time to explore the fortified citadel and enjoy some ice-cream to cool of under the summer sun.

Late afternoon we arrive at our new hotel, Bethlen Estates, right on time for a bath in the pool before dinner. For the final night's celebration, we end in style with traditional cuisine reinterpreted by our hosts with the idea of feeding the mind and soul, accompanied by elegant fine wines.

Day 9 - Alma Vii, Biertan, Sibiu farewell

Following a leisurely breakfast, along the ride back to Sibiu International Airport we enjoy the views of the fortified churches and charming rural villages of the Saxon part of Transylvania. We stopped in Alma Vii, a 12th century village surrounded by ancient forests, to unwind the whole experience and to exchange impressions and feedback about our journey, A Tale of Transylvania.

Although our journey has come to an end, the memories are our to keep. We'll say farewell for now.

One of those unspoiled destinations a bit off the beaten path, Romania flies under the radar, but serves up unexpected surprises and delights along the way. A trip to these unique lands is almost like opening a magic curtain to another time.

What better way to dive deeper into the history, culture and the natural wonders of Romania than by seeing for yourself? Connect with us to see how we can craft your own personalized experience of these magic lands, laden with history and unspeakable beauty.

Denis-Alain Zaharia